All my GERSON panels have come via Musclebus.
Sadly, although there is a panel listed, GERSON no longer make it as its too much hassle to sort the presses (or something like that)
Slight progress today, in that I got my dash and front panel back from the blasters. Sprayed them up in a decent coat of weld through primer ready to be fitted. -
Dash came out really well.
Front panel has higlithed a few pinholes close to the bottom that will be removed when a repair strip is added.
First task is to remove those 6 horrible holes that the front came with.
I'm guessing that some idiot has fitted a spare to the front at some time.
Whats the best way of doing this?
The holes are about 15mm in diameter.
I was going to just fill them with blobs of weld, slowly adding more until the hole was filled and then sand down. Will this create too much heat and distortion.
Should I actually weld 15mm circles of stell into the holes?
Am guessing the latter will be preferrable but very fidly.
Will have to try and hold them in with magnets on the rear before welding.
id guess that youd warp the panel lik mad if you try to just weld the holes up due to shrinkage
may be better to plate across the back - then maybe weld thru the holes but id still think you will get warpage!
__________________
im always available on 07951 007431!
wanted
t4 flywheel - not 228mm
36hp fanshroud for t/p t1?
http://www.bus-types.co.uk
http://www.dubtypes.co.uk - shrewsburys vdubya club
meeting at the Red barn from 8pm.
The address is:
The Red barn
108 Longden Rd,
Shrewsbury,
Shropshire,
SY3 7HS
01743 362503
Either use a magnet on the rear with a 15mm circle of metal and puddle weld into the recess or get someone to hold a lump of brass on the rear side (obviously with some gaunlets on ) whilst you weld on top of the brass onto the front side. The weld will not stick to the brass so you will be able to remove it cleanly afterwards
Either use a magnet on the rear with a 15mm circle of metal and puddle weld into the recess or get someone to hold a lump of brass on the rear side (obviously with some gaunlets on ) whilst you weld on top of the brass onto the front side. The weld will not stick to the brass so you will be able to remove it cleanly afterwards
Managed to get a little bit more done today.
Fitted my new Autocraft outer valance. Hugely grateful to the guys at Autocraft for having the old one back and exchanging for the new full height model.
Was hoping it would be a nice easy fit but no chance.
The profile was right but the ends didnt meet up with A post repairs properly (fault lies with the Gerson panels).
Anyway, after drilling and welding over 150 holes -
Got the one end to fit right but the other will need a bit of fettling-
So after 4 hrs work!!!!!!!!!!!!, I thought I would try the sandblasted dash for fitment -
Again a bit more fettling needed a perhaps a bit of filler but It is lined up ok. Gonna have to figure out how to repair that windscreen flange on the front edge of the dash. Would be easy if it was a 90 degree angle and not so close to the heater tubes as I could just put in a bit of angle but I'm gonna have to patch the corroded areas.
More progress soon
Looking very good, one thing, know you have welded the outer panel on, the head light mounting panel has a return that slots under the lower inner panel, are you still able to weld this, only asked cos ive do this in the past also,
Great job thou seeing as your at home and outside, fair play
__________________
Low is the only way to go!!!
ist nichts unmöglich
MRM Services (Home of das dub doktor)
Unit W3 James Rd
Tyseley
Birmingham
B11 2BA