this is how i have converted the my t4 to upright cooling
as i understand its the same as the cali cooling conversion by joe cali?
NextGen-USA.com
i found all the info on the net and the rest was my own mistake!
t4 upright cooling
from this
to this
i wimped out and bought one of these bits from massive TIV store (The Type IV Store :: Cooling Systems :: Cooling System Accessories)
also bought this pulley from them
but i have issues with the whole thing aligning, the DTM stand, as the name sugests locates the alternator/fanshroud in a position so that the fanshroud is blowing air Down The Middle of cylinders#1 & #2.
this means than at the other side the air is being blown directly onto #4 clyinder
i understand that this an inherant design issue with the flat 4 engine and upright cooling but in this instants it results in the fanshroud fouling the #4 sparkplug acess!
showing cylinders#1 & 2
showing cylinders #3 & 4
this meant that i had to use a dynamo to allow the fanshroud to fit futher over the centre of the #3 & 4 cylinders, however dont go too far as you will get the same problem on 1 & 2 cylinders as you have on #3 & 4!
this is where i settled on - fanshroud position over cylinders #3 & 4
its a compromise without making your own DTM shroud
i had a pulley made too to gain the offset towards the engine to make the dynamo pulley line up
you also need to swap the centres out of the dynamo/alternator pulley halves, you may need to find another pulley if you have gen vw ones, aparently a good blow with a suitable hammer will knock the centre out of a cheep repro one!
the centre boss from the rear part of the pulley needs to be removed and welded in to the front part of the pulley, you should now see that you have a 'deep dished' pulley
std pulley
modified pulley
you can clearly see the difference in the resulting positon that the belt will be running in
ok thats the theory done !
time to cut and shut some tin!
ok 2 sets of these
cut them like this
then using one set fit the one piece off the correct side in the correct position
then the other piece in the remaining position
like this
they dont have to fit that well
and weld the bits together at each end, you only need to weld the ends to gether actually!
with them fitted in the correct position
and the fanshroud refitted
theres a gap to fill!
using a bit of cardboard
then transfer to some scrap tin
then cut out the excess
with everything on the engine the oil cooler exhaust needs sorting
it needs to be narrowed to clear the #3 sparkplug
before i forget
from what ive read you need to fit some of these from a t1 engine, to the underside of the cylinders, they are designed for upright cooling unlike the t4 ones, which are not!
they need to be forced into position, i used a spare engine to do this and was able to hammer them into position and shape then without worriing about damaging anything
to make up the rest of the tin i used t1 and t4, cut to suit the engine bay
thermostat
in order to get the engine to warm up correctly i fitted the flaps and thermostat from a t1
its an aftermarket shroud so i had to drill all the fixings for the flaps, also shorten one of the flap opperating arms to clear the spark plug.
i used a combination of the t1 thermostat welded to the original t4 bracket
oil cooler
as the t4 oil cooler is front mounted on the engine, i used the stock t1 cooler in the stock t1 position, in the 'dog house' in the fanshroud.
by fitting an oil bypass adaptor to the front oilcooler position and also by drilling/tapping thru the back of the std t1 oil cooler mount and drilling thru the front ot the fan shroud it is then possible to run hoses from the original cooler position up to the new position
you can also see the home made dipstick adaptor
. Out of interest what sort of power you expecting from that 2056 setup? sounds interesting 
I thought you were dropping it off the trailer